Ban Phung is to Hoang Su Phi as Y Ty is to Sapa. Both are very remote, mountainous regions with limited services and amazing landscapes. I usually approach it via Bac Ha and Si Ma Cai. It is my first stop in Hoang Su Phi. There is really only one homestay in Ban Phung (Chi Tai) but it’s perfectly positioned overlooking the village rice fields.
The Ban Phung village and viewpoint is a bit off DT178, the main road the Si Ma Cai and Xin Man. The road is in good shape but prone to frequent landslides so allow at least an hour from the main road to not arrive after sundown.
The area is quite a bit smaller than Y Ty though so a couple of days is enough here if you get good weather. FromBan Phung you can head to Hoang Su Phi city and on to Ban Luoc. There is a good Sunday market in Hoang Su Phi but you can reach it from Ban Luoc so best to stay there rather than Hoang Su Phi. Ban Luoc and Ho Thau both have lots of great homestay options.
If you have time before Ban Luoc, get to Xan Sa Ho via Hoang Su Phi City. There are some unique rice fields and nice angles for photography. The first part of the road is in great shape with elevated distant river views. The road around Xan Sa Ho itself however can be very challenging after a rainfall.
