This is the most rugged area in Ha Giang province. The roads are not as well maintained, the grades steeper, but during the rice harvest it is amazing. A tie with Mu Cang Chai for the most impressive terraced rice fields without so many tourists.
How to get to Hoang Su Phi
There are two major roads that access the Hoang Su Phi region.
DT177 is best for those looking to spend a few days in Hoang Su Phi, it also pairs well with a Ha Giang Loop trip as it is accessed from the main route to Ha Giang, QL2. Arriving via DT177 puts you close to Thong Nguyen which is a good introduction to the area. This is one of the more developed areas for tourism with many homestays directly in the rice fields.
The other route is either DT178 off of QL2 or better yet arrive via Bac Ha and the upper portion of DT178. This is great for those arriving from Sapa who want to explore the upper parts of Hoang Su Phi like Ban Phung and Ban Luoc.
The best places to find the most impressive rice fields are (from northwest to southeast):
- Ban Phuong — the most remote and dramatic.
- Ban Luoc — my favorite all-around base for landscapes and homestays.
- Ta Su Choong — quieter and less visited.
- Thong Nguyen — the easiest to reach and the most developed for visitors.
When to visit
Anytime between planting and harvesting is great. Other times of year the landscape is not as impressive. Planting usually starts in late May and extends to June. This is often referred to as the water pouring season when the terraces are filled with water and make great reflections for photographers. The scenes are particularly photogenic at sunset and sunrise. The harvest time is even more popular with the rice fields taking on a golden color with the harvest. This is typically late September to early October. The planting and harvesting can vary quite a bit from year to year. You don’t want to be early for water pouring or late for harvest, so do some checking before you set out.
My preferences is to allow 2 days in each area so that makes the tour of Hoang Su Phi a 6-8 day trip, depending on areas visited. I like to approach from the north after stopping in Bac Ha and Si Ma Cai I start in Ban Phung. Then work your way southeast to Ban Luoc, Ta Su Choong, and Thong Nguyen before heading to the Ha Giang Loop area or over to Ba Be Lake and Cao Bang if on a long tour. I have done the Ha Giang Loop 4 times now and the crowds seem to get larger and larger each year. I give it a miss these days but if you’ve never been it’s a definite bucket list item.
Photography Tips
A wide-angle or ultra-wide lens will get a lot of use here. The curved rice fields want a large amount of area in the frame. You can also use the rice areas or day huts as strong foreground elements for mountain scenes. I also carry a portrait lens for the market in Hoang Su Phi and local portraits. You may not use a telephoto much though there are some distant mountains that do well with a long shot and compression. I keep it light and use a long zoom that is not particularly fast. There are a few waterfalls so bring an ND filter and a tripod is useful in general though these days, with modern lenses and software, I can shoot at f/8 get plenty of depth of field and use a higher ISO for most scenes.
Weekend Markets
The biggest market is the Sunday market in Hoang Su Phi city. It is well worth a trip and fairly close to the Ban Luoc area. The ride from Ban Luoc to Hoang Su Phi is also quite nice. There is also a Sunday market in Thong Nguyen if you are that area on the weekend. Like all weekend markets, get there before 08:00am.
Drone Photography
Hoang Su Phi is close to the Chinese border, so don’t assume that its remoteness means drone flights are permitted. Vietnam has tightened its drone regulations considerably, and parts of Hoang Su Phi fall within restricted border areas. Check the current restricted-airspace information and permit requirements before flying. See my guide to drone laws in Vietnam for more information. It’s always a concern in Vietnam but I have never run into any border guards or other officials looking for drone pilots, and I have seen many people flying drones in Hoang Su Phi. If you want to take the risk I’d avoid the Ban Phung area due to its proximity to China.
Hoang Su Phi is my favorite rice terrace area in Vietnam. There is a wildness to much of it and I like the challenge and authenticity. You won’t find as many tourists or things like renting indigenous apparel as you will in say Mu Cang Chai. For me that’s a good thing.
