Pu Luong is one of my favorite non-mountain rice-growing spots. . It’s quite easy to combine with Ninh Binh making a good multi-day loop from Hanoi. Or if you’re short on time it’s the perfect weekend getaway from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi.
Unlike the terraced rice fields in Mu Cang Chai and other mountain areas, there are two, not one, rice crops per year. From February to October, you will find the fields photogenic. The most popular rice fields are in Don Village and Hieu Village.
If you are looking for waterfalls and mountain hikes Pu Luong has Hieu Waterfall with water cascading over limestone rocks. Pu Luong Peak, at 1,700 meters, is popular for sunrise, sunset, and night-sky photography.
There are a number of villages with good photo opportunities. Ban Hang and Kho Muong villages have traditional stilt houses, and friendly locals for portrait and cultural photography.
Pu Luong is a bit like Cao Bang with a very pastoral country side. Like Cao Bang waterwheels are an important part of the rice irrigation. Wheels are powered by streams, pick up water in their little buckets, and dump it into bamboo pipes that move the water to the fields. Quite ingenious and great elements for countryside photos.
The most famous and accessible water wheels in Pu Luong are found along the Cham River, near Tom Village and Ban Cong Commune. This is a popular spot for both viewing and learning about the traditional bamboo water wheels used for irrigation by local Thai and Muong ethnic groups.
Many tours include a stop at the “Water Wheel Point” on the Cham River, where you can see these wheels up close and even enjoy bamboo rafting past them. Your hotel can setup a tour.
Speaking of hotels that is another highlight of Pu Luong. As much as I love the rugged wilderness of the north, sleeping on a mattress, in the fan-cooled room of the typical remote homestay can get old. Pu Luong has some wonderful eco-lodges. It’s proximity to Hanoi and weekend travelers of means has developed a higher standard of lodging. Pu Luong Natura Resort is my go-to spot when I go there. Great location and comfy bungalows. The area still falls a bit short on the dining front but it seems to improve every time I visit.
Pu Luong is a real treat and a great weekend getaway from Hanoi. It is a andscape photographer’s paradise with easily accessible waterfalls, mountains, rice fields and pastoral scenes. It is also easily combined with Ninh Binh. A wonderful loop is Hanoi -> Ninh Binh -> Pu Luong -> Hanoi. Pu Luong gets far fewer visitors than Ninh Binh, though it can be busy on the weekends during prime times.
